Hiking, Kayaking- July 2020
Rating: *****
Distance: ~5 miles
Vertical: ~1.4k ft
Time: ~3 hours plus more for picnic at lake
Difficulty: Easy
This is, in our opinion, the most dramatic short hike within a ~1 hour /drive from Anchorage. The short and somewhat steep hike ends in a spectacular glacial lake with blooming wild flowers. If you're on a short trip to Anchorage and have one free afternoon, stop searching and do this hike.
To get to the trailhead you drive about an hour from Anchorage and then have to go through the Anton Anderson Tunnel which is extremely narrow and one-way only. In fact, you can only go through once an hour with a round-trip toll of ~$13. Make sure to get there a bit early to get your ticket.
The hike begins with a relatively steep ascent of a little over a mile on an old trail which was used to, you guessed it, portage from the Prince William Sound across to the Turnagain Arm. The trail is well maintained and should be doable for children and novice hikers. Once you crest the ridge at the top you'll be rewarded by your first epic view of the glacier itself which winds its way into a massive icefield. The trail continues down to the large lake which has a rocky beach along its east side. We walked left as far as we could until we came to a swift-moving stream which you need to ford to get to the glacier itself. This is a great spot for lunch or a snack but you really can't go wrong given the multitude of views.
Then it's back the way you came to the trailhead. While you wait for the tunnel back, it's worth checking out the tiny town of Whittier which is famous for almost all of the residents living in a single building that contains all basic services required so residents need not leave the building in the harsh winters including a public school and general store. An old military town, today the focus is firmly on the water with numerous fishing tours and restaurants. We'll update this post once we get a chance to check out the 2 other hikes in town, one along the coast and one that goes up into the mountains.
Another great option to consider for Portage Lake is taking a kayak out. If you have your own boat, there's a launch by the Turnagain side of the tunnel at the viewing area. It's a short portage down to the water with a bit uneven footing. Be aware that the lake has very steep sides and the water is extremely cold so be prepared and trained for a wet reentry and go on a very calm day to avoid taking any risks. An even more ambitious version which we're hoping to try soon is hitchhiking through to Whittier, hiking over the pass, launching a packraft into the lake and then finishing down Portage Creek back to the car.